Top-name rock acts, cultural dances and museum exhibitions are the highlights of this city’s cultural roster. Posters are plastered all around town on fences and walls when a big pop act comes to town. The Thailand Cultural Center sponsors events year round. The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra’s half-a-dozen performances a year at the National Theater attract the glamorous patrons and paparazzi of a Hollywood premiere, and tickets are very hard to come by. Scan the daily entertainment sections in the English-language newspapers, or ask your hotel’s concierge or front desk.

The National Theater features plays, music and dance, as well as half-a-dozen performances yearly by the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra. Rachinee Road, Phra Nakom, phone 221-0171.

The traditional dance-drama you’re most likely to see is khon, which is performed at the standard “dinner-and-dance” package tours taking place in perhaps a dozen restaurants each night. The silent dancers wear masks and heavy, ornate costumes. Movements are extremely stylized and intended to convey precise events and action. A chorus chants the story to the accompaniment of classical musicians. The story is always an episode from the Indian epic, the Ramayana (in Thai, Ramakien).

When the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra performs, the National Theater is filled to capacity. A ticket for one of their performances will run you between 250 baht and 2,500 baht. Phone 221-0171.

The Thailand Cultural Center occasionally hosts traditional and nontraditional Thai and Western dance, music and variety shows and, occasionally, the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra. Far up on the east side of Ratchadapisek Road, north of Din Daeng intersection, just past the Bangkok Metropolitan Transit Authority. Phone 247-0013 or 247-0028.

Although the audiences will be primarily tourists, the performances are assuredly authentic. The dancers have trained for many years.

The National Stadium hosts sporting events and such superstar performers as Michael Jackson. In the city center, Rama I Road, phone 251-4109.

Performances of khon are presented several times a month at the National Theater and occasionally at the Thai Cultural Center. They’re well worth seeing, even when (as at the National Theater) the dancers are still students.

A form of dancing derived from the khon is lakhon, which features dancers with masks and has no chorus. Besides dramatizing episodes from the Ramayana, lakhon may also dramatize episodes from the life of Buddha or from Thai folk tales. Lakhon is what you see performed at the Erawan Shrine and Lak Muang (the City Pillar).

Here are some restaurants offering a Thai dinner followed by a khon performance. Hotels and travel agencies selling dinner-and-dance tickets will funnel you into one of these shows, and will also include transportation:

Baan Thai, 7 Sukhumvit Rd., Soi 32, phone 259-5403 or 258-9517.

Maneeya’s Lotus Room, Ploenchit Road, phone 252-6312.

Nopakao Room, Chao Pharaya Restaurant, Arun Amarin Road, phone 424-2389.

Ruen Thep, Silom Village Trade Center, Silom Road, phone 233-9447.

Sala Thai, Indra Regent Hotel, phone 251-1111.

Sala Rim Naam, Oriental Hotel, phone 437-6221.

NIGHTLIFE

Still known as “Sin City,” Bangkok is a gritty source, unfortunately, for commercial and exploitative sex. Patpong I and II are two infamous streets running parallel to each other between Silom Road and Surawongse Road. In the Patpong area and in the establishments on Soi Cowboy and at the Nana Plaza (at Soi 4 and Washington Square), there’s plenty to see for the curious, but extreme caution is advised if you frequent the bars. AIDS is rampant (more than 800,000 Thais are infected); consorting with strangers is not only hazardous to your health but also an invitation to theft of your wallet.

Calypso Cabaret is a campy, Las Vegas-style revue featuring dance, song and burlesque performed by a “slew of lovely ladies” (actually, they’re men). This might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but the show has a touch of class. Reservations suggested. Nightly 8:30 pm and 9:45 pm. 300 baht, including one drink. Full bar. All credit cards. Asia Hotel, 296 Phyathai Road, phone 261-6355.

Spasso’s, on the lobby level of the Grand Hyatt Erawan, offers lively rock bands in an elegant setting. Not a great place for conversation, but you can communicate on the dance floor. Booze flows; so does your cash. Italian cuisine in the restaurant. 10 pm-2 am nightly. Credit cards, no cover. 494 Ratchadamri Rd., phone 254-1234.

CM², a play on the name Siam Square, is a multithemed spot with different “entertainment zones.” Nightly 7 pm-2 am. Credit cards. Novotel Siam, Siam Square, Soi 6, phone 255-6888, ext. 2549.

Bobby’s Arms is a British-style pub, perhaps the only one in Patpong where women will be halfway comfortable. Serves food, spirits and beer. Dixieland on Sunday afternoons. Daily 11 am-1 am. Credit cards. 2 Soi Patpong, phone 233-6828.

You’ll find trendy Thais eating, drinking and resonating to music off upper Silom Road (around Silom Soi 2 and Soi 4)—the hub of a very trendy area. Just north of Lumpini Park, Soi Sarasin and Soi Lang Suan echo with the sounds of blues and jazz and soft rock every night of the week, drawing 30-something professionals. Soi Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) is similar, but with a higher standard of cuisine. Royal City Avenue (RCA) is a phenomenal concentration of theme bars, discos, clubs, outdoor cafes, art galleries, pop music, hip-hop and techno—not to mention an authentic Sardinian restaurant. Far-flung Rachadapisek Road appears to be turning into a Las Vegaslike strip. The Bamboo Bar, in the Oriental Hotel, is one of the finest jazz venues outside of Chicago or New Orleans. If you want to catch music and jokes that appeal to most Thais (i.e., ordinary, country-bred types), persuade a Thai friend to bring you to some of the live middle-of-the-road lam and luuk thung clubs, such as those along New Petchburi Road: The mood and lyrics recall U.S.-style country music.

The Bamboo Bar entertainment invariably consists of an accomplished female jazz singer from the U.S. and an accompanying pianist. Very civilized atmosphere. Music starts at 10 pm. Pricey drinks. Dress up; this is one of Bangkok’s most luxurious clubs. Credit cards, no cover, one-drink minimum. The Oriental Hotel, Oriental Lane, phone 236-0400.

DJ Station attracts the trendier gay set. It’s packed on weekends. The 200-baht cover includes two drinks. 8/6-8 Silom, Soi 2, phone 266-4029.

In the popular Sarasin area, Old West Saloon puts on the face of the frontier, with Thais interpreting country-western music. Clientele is white-collar Thai and foreign residents. Serves food, spirits and beer. Nightly 6 pm-1 am, music starts at 8 pm. Credit cards. 231/17 Soi Sarisan, phone 252-9510.

Hard Rock Cafe hosts the best Top 40, soul, rock and reggae cover bands in Bangkok. It’s popular with Thais and foreigners alike. Credit cards, no cover. Food, booze and beer. Nightly music 8:30 pm-1 am. Siam Square, 965 Rama I Rd., phone 251-0792.

Wine Wild Why? is a very Thai bar with a Thai clientele, despite the easy-listening and pop jazz background music. It’s convenient if you’ve been scouting Chatuchak Park’s weekend market. This road is just south, and it’s full of other quirky bars and friendly drinkers. Close also to Central Plaza Hotel. Nightly 5 pm-2 am. No credit cards. 421 Kamphaengphet Rd., phone 272-4783.

Raintree looks like a hunting lodge, with stuffed skins and stag heads. But the musicians play an infectious brand of socially critical folk rock—“songs for life” (pleng pleua cheewit). Nightly 6 pm-2 am. No credit cards. 116/64 Rangnam, off Phyathai Road (south of the Victory Monument), phone 245-7230.

Phuture is new, very trendy, high-tech and not cheap. Part dance club, part theater. Even Aqua has performed on the premises. Late in the evening, deejays take over with house and techno. Frequented by TV stars and the children of “influential people.” Nightly 9 pm-3 am. 500 baht cover charge, includes two drinks. Visa. 91/9 Ratchadapisek Rd., phone 693-8022.

El Gordo’s Cantina, striving for a Tex-Mex ambience, is an odd place to go on a Thai vacation, but you’ll feel comfortable bringing your children. Live Tex-Mex, Cajun and bluegrass with dobros, kazoos and other funny instruments. Touristy. Daily 11 am-1 am. Credit cards. 130/8 Silom Rd., Soi 8, phone 237-1415.

Saxophone Pub and Restaurant is an old favorite of expats and Thais alike. The purely jazz format has been relaxed to allow some blues and rock to sneak in. Casual atmosphere. Credit cards. 3/3 Victory Monument (southeast side of circle), Phyathai Road, phone 246-5472.

The Rome Club is an institution—going on 25 years now—but with one of the best sound systems and deejays that make sure everyone keeps dancing. Gay and straight crowd. Drag show at midnight. Nightly 7 pm-3 am. Credit cards. 90-96 Silom, Soi 4, phone 233-8836.

Witch’s Tavern is a lounge bar with very comfortable seating, good food and polished jazz, plus a bit of pop music. Visiting musicians are invited to join jam sessions on Sunday afternoons. Open daily 11 am-2 pm and 5 pm-1 am. Credit Cards. 306/1 Sukhumvit, Soi 55 (Soi Thonglor), phone 391-9791. (This neighborhood hosts many good small restaurants, music bars and art galleries.)

Taurus is another rare survivor, a perennial favorite of models, TV stars and children of the idle rich. Quality live Thai bands in one part, club with chart and house music in another. Sushi restaurant and video arcade as well. Nightly 6 pm-2 am. 500 baht cover fee, includes two drinks. Credit cards. Sukhumvit, Soi 26, next to Four Wings Hotel, phone 261-3991.